City Guide - Siena

Formed as a Roman military colony in 20 BC, Saena (Siena) reached its prominence in the 13th and early 14th centuries. The center of Siena is dominated by its elegant gothic Cathedral and Piazza del Campo, a shell shaped piazza surrounded by elegant buildings (palazzi) and punctuated by the Palazzo Pubblico with its 330 foot tower, Torre del Mangia. The Cathedral itself was originally designed and completed between 1215 and 1263, the height of Sienese power. Later a massive addition was planned, treating the existing structure as the transept (horizontal section of a typical duomo). The work was halted, however, by the Black Plague in 1348, which by then had killed nearly half of the citizens, leaving few workers to complete the work. Instead the survivors built the small marble loggia in front of the Torre del Mangia to give thanks, with hopes the plague and anything like it would not take hold of Siena ever again.

Prior to this debilitating disease Siena was able to exert its power in Italy and across Europe in the 13th century, accumulating its power through the city's banking system. It was in fact during this time more of a financial center that even London or Paris. (the oldest banking institution in the world, Monte dei Paschi, originated in Siena and still operates there today). However, this show of financial strength would not last as the jealous Florentines could not be content with such a powerful neighbor. The two cities waged many a battle over Tuscan supremacy, each holding several major victories. Siena finally succumbed during a 18 month Florentine siege of the city in 1555. This victory secured Siena and Tuscany under the rule of Florence and the Medici family for the next 184 years.

Siena is of course the home of il Palio. With its origins over 700 years old, this festival and the horse race that delivers the exciting climax, takes place in the campo twice a year. Today's bareback, anything goes affair may have begun as part of a more subdued religious ceremony conducted by the cities elite ruling class in the month of August as early as 1238. Later the Contrade (17 neighborhoods that make up Siena) and their respective constituents sought to maintain the traditions of the original festival and its pageantry and thus were responsible for the creation of their own race to be held in July. Ultimately the Contrade controlled both races and their continuing development to the present day format.